European flavours in Warsaw

Districts of Warsaw, secret corners and bustling street lure with new, gorgeous terraces, boards with names of exquisite dishes written in chalk sloppily. After the summer time, I would like to write about three three places that lured me in (no worries there are more than three places to go to in Warsaw, I just want to go into details about those three):

Bistro ŻuŻu (Mokotów Górny, 43 Kazimierzowska Street)

Klub Winiarnia by Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz, 8 Pawła Suzina Street)

Santorini (Saska Kępa, 7 Egipska Street ) and

Złoto Hiszpanii (also Saska Kępa, 26 Francuska Street).

In Mokotów in the Bistro ŻuŻu you can occasionally devour delicate mussles in my favourite white wine sauce (tomato sauce is not my cup of tea).

At the Croatian’s you can eat very good seafood (baby octopus, grilled cuttlefish, squids in red wine etc.) and taste Croatian indigenous grapes (Vugava with its honey-like robe and straw-yellow Graševina).

In the Santorinii Restaurant I especially recommend seasonal courgette flowers. I definitely don’t recommend the sole Greek wine available per glass – the Retsina wine. Green and watery disturbs the feast. This is the only but quite a serious disadvantage in this restaurant whose interior design and atmosphere let guests fly away to the southern Hellad itself.

As for the last place Złoto Hiszpanii (Gold of Spain), I visited it twice. The first time I tasted the only wine from Gancia grape and a blend of Muscat de Frontignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Moscatel de Alejandria and Gewürztraminer. Unfortunately it was scorching heat and passion for wine lost to thirst, and I didn't remember the name of the wines and the bar's website is temporarily out of order.Besides I also had pinchos with smashed tomatoes with olive oil, as well as pinchos with foie-gras and balsamic reduction.

The second time for aperitif I had Cava l’Hereu by Raventos I Blanc. I was nicely surprised with the cava (12 PLN per glass) but the starters were rather disappointing (mussels in orange sauce and honey, octopus salad). I definitely advise against these two dishes from the menu. You will do better if you go to ‘Kuchnie Świata’ (World’s cuisines) where you can buy octopus and mussels à la Spanish or à la Portuguese which, as I assume, have been slightly ‘souped up’ in the tapas bar. The undeniably strong side of Złoto Hiszpanii is the whole gamut of pinchos prepared right in front of you. In the menu you can find only basic versions, so you’d better enter the shop and have a look at different variations yourself. It’s worth saying that this place accepts the corkage, so all you can do is just take your favourite bottle of wine and once you reach Złoto Hiszpanii grab some pinchos. I myself visited this bar with an exceptional bottle of red wine

Carodorum Crianza (12 months in the oak barrel)

from an increasingly popular region of Toro.  It has a remarkable red robe and with every sip it gives a rising pleasure. It’s wonderfully balanced, abundantly fruity and at the same time with a perfect level of acidity. Velvet tannins top up this hedonistic whole.

Nose : black fruit, black and redcurrant, smoky notes, licorice

Mouth: velvet, well-structured, wild fruit, cherry liquor

It’s ending doesn’t let you forget about this wine. 

White wines up to 100 zł

Special occasions require special celebration. Celebration is highlighted by the sound of an uncorked sparkling wine, such as : Franciacorta, Prosecco, Cava, Crémant d’Alsace, Crémant de Bourgogne or the king of bubbles known as Champagne. This year’s birthday of my sister was celebrated with the Spanish genre of sparkling wine called Cava. The choice was obvious :

Robert L. Mur Millessimé 

Brut Nature 

D.O. Penedès 

Vintage 2008

Expectations have been met. The recipe for a successful celebration is as follows:

The best grapes Xarel.lo, Macabeo, Parellada, Chardonnay

+

 48 of aging in the bottle

=

 lingering bubbles, acidity, elegance, exquisiteness, dried fruit and nut notes.

You can buy it on wine websites and in wine shops for around 70 PLN.

I’ve already written about this wine. Two weeks after the wine tasting of Portuguese wines I came back to it in the compilation with French goodies, e.g. camembert, goat cheese, French stick made by Vincent and green olives. Contacto distinguishes with elegance and a good structure, goes well with soft cheese, velvet-like goat cheese as well as mixed cheese, with a soft mould. Creamy structure of cheese perfectly suited creamy character of the wine and the olives brought out the acidity.

This wine is quite universal and I would happily serve it with a sweet dessert, such as panna cotta (creaminess + acidity coming from cherries) – yummie!

This wine is available in the wine shop, at the restaurant Portucale for around 70 PLN.

Friendly match : Chardonnay vs. Chablis

EVENT: Friendly match between freshmen and seniors with a special participation of an old hand (absent in the picture)

CHARDONNAY

1. Chocolan Estate Chardonnay 2008, Maipo Valley, Chile

Nose : tropical fruit (pineapple, melon), vanilla

Mouth: it wraps up tongue and palate like a honeycomb, buttery (so buttery that I was convinced thta it had been aged in oak)  

For cool evenings, unpretentious, simple in its richness of notes and aromas. Perfect for beginners and skeptics who pull their faces once a thought about wine crosses their minds and say : úghh I don’t drink it – it’s too dry!’ 

2. Peter Lehmann Chardonnay, Australia

Nose : pear, apple, pineapple

Mouth: fresh, decent structure which boils down to a fairly marked aftertaste

Nose and mouth in balance; untypical for a Chardonnay from the New World, as it doesn’t knock down with its vulgarity and abundance; closer (note it’s superlative form of the adjective close; it makes a great difference here) to European origins

CHABLIS

3. Chablis Vrignaud Petit Chablis (unoaked)

Nose : crispy apple, pear, grass

Mouth: mineral, stony coldness, fresh and crispy

It is so mineral and fresh that at times it gives an itching impression. Harmonious, very pleasant! My favourite!

4. Chablis Vrignaud Chablis Les Champréaux

I would wait and let it age a bit more. I may be wrong of course but I reckon that one year would be enough for still hidden aromas to emerge out. Petit Chablis (3) could be the vineyard's warrancy certificate. Presumably it will be the same with Chablis (4); however, at this moment the 'freshman' is winning with the 'senior'. 

5. Chablis Vrignaud Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 

Buttery, good acidity level, minerality in balance with vanilla’s sweetness stemming from the oak barrel. Appropriate price and quality relation.

It was n°3 who won the evening match. Apparently I put into practice what many proclaim – that one should cheer up the worse ones, who no one believes in.  

The cherry on the cake for today is the promised participation of the old hand:

Château Colombier Monpelou 1982

Cru Bourgeois Premier

Pauillac, France

He is barely 30 years old and he seems to be falling apart. It’s vivid but he has his prime years behind him. His ‘skin’ is not the same anymore… once ruby, today tattered, rusty-brown. He’s not a frail or a bag of bones. He’s robust and persistent on the tongue. Spending time with him reminded me of the flavour of a liquor cherry or plum marmelade. It’s a pity that I didn’t meet him before. Maybe it would be something more serious. Nevertheless I do have respect for the old folk, he bravely endured all those years in the confined bottle. ..

I feel like GREEN!

The choice of Portuguese wines in the restaurant Portucale is trully impressive.
Problems with picking the right one? Below you'll find my suggestions after today's wine tasting.

Stand 1

Gatão – basic,  pugnacious as befits the ‘cat’ nature (refreshing with much acidity, crispy)

Muros Antigos – ok!

Blue ocean  - dry, petillant, acid, incomplete

Muralhas de Monção  (grapes : trajadura, alavarinho) – complete (sic!), satisfying

Stand 2

-Casal Garcia 2010 – sparkling - childish, lively; for those who prefer foam to bubbles, not for me… -
-Aveleda Vinho verde 2011 (grape: Loureiro) – aromatic in nose, acid, crisp, dry flavour with a prickle; if nose is with character and mouth doesn’t give up to the proud nose , there is only one conclusion : satisfaction, my favourite of all the vinho verdes I tried today; (add to the basket!)

-Aveleda Colheita Seleccionada (grape : loureiro)  - good wine for a Saturday dinner, good with fish, seafood and delicate white meat

-Aveleda 2011 DOC Douro (grape : Loureiro) imposing in nose, much acidity in mouth, for warm as well as cold days. I’m in.

Stand 3 – my favourite

-Soalheiro 2010 (grape : alvarinho) - B+!

-Muros antigos 2010 (grape : alvarinho)

During the tasting I had Muros Antigos 2010. In the shop only 2007 stock was available. I was about to buy it when I saw the difference of years. Of course it’s not “verde” but I decided to ask about the influence of time on this particular wine anyway. I wasn’t sure if the purchase of 2007 would be the right one. After I asked the question, there was a short and very precise discussion about aging in terms of Portuguese wines. Of course vinhos verde are to be drunk YOUNG but since Muros Antigos  is not a vinho verde and has aged in oak, 5 years in bottle won’t make any harm to the wine itself. It won’t bring out hidden aromas, it won’t make wonders but it won’t harm either. I bought another one anyway… see below…

-Anselmo Mendes Contacto – add to the basket!

Bad qulity picture taken in a flash, as the weather was anti-verde...

-Anselmo Mendes Curtimenta – buttery (oak), vanilla, pineapple, musky melon, nuts  

-Muros de Melgaçao, Colheita 2009 – long bottle, slender and at the same time massive, like the wine itself – subtle, proud and self-confident.  I left the pleasure of writing about it like one leaves a cherry to devour at the end of a cake feast. I’m writing about it at the end though I accidentally tasted it in the middle of the wine tasting.  I chose it unconsciously, elbowing my way through other wine-lovers.  It happened just like that. And when things happen just like that they don’t pass by just like that. They anchor themselves for good. This time I really hoped that my taste-buds were deceived by something modest but well the slender bottle doesn’t shelter anything modest. The price of 200 PLN doesn’t equal with modesty, at least for me J

Stand  4

-Bestué de otto 2010 Somontano – (grapes : Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon);  decent; unexpected friendly gesture during the night of Portuguese wines; it’s a so-called ‘wine for ladies’


-Casa Santos Lima, Bons Ventos, Rose 2010 - wild strawberry, herbal in nose, shamelss in mouth, herbal and bitter like a medicine, off-putting. After one sip I looked for a bucket to pour this 'marvel' out.     

-Charramba - My bitterness fell down though it didn’t reach the zero point in case of ‘Charramba’. Ohh how can a wine be so powerful in nose and so mediocre in mouth. Another shameless fellow!

Regardless of the poor red wines, the wine tasting was absolutely successful. The star of the night was ‘verde’ though I had my private stars as well (see Stand 3)

Garganega + Trebbiano Soave + Chardonnay + Salad with duck breast = ?

Common connotations with duck breasts are : oriental style (Chinese, Vietnamese etc.) and sweet style (with apples, oranges, forest fruit, cranberry etc.). This time I went for the latter and kept it in mind when looking for the right wine. First it was supposed to be Mouton Cadet (sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, muscadet). Yet I was persuaded into taking Scaia (chardonnay, trebbiano soave, garganega). Both wines are white but a duck goes well also with red wine in a light version. As for white wines, they should be distinct. Its fruitness should bring out juicy meat and highlight fruits accompanying the duck. I wouldn’t serve it with wines like gewürztraminer unless it was exceptionally mineral. In case of wines such as traminer or gewürztraminer one risks obtaining an overly sweet and bland effect. When served with duck wine should combine both a considerable concentration of fruit and aciditiy with minerality.

Scaia is a combination of the Italian grapes garganega and trebbiano soave with the international one – chardonnay. With notes of pineapple, mango and jasmine flowers it’s overwhelming in nose and  equally strong on palate. Citrus and grass appear at the very end. Such an acid finish in  a duet with this duck was particularly favorable. In search for a perfect combination of wine and food, I decided to create a similar balance of acidity and sweetness on the plate. That’s why apart from garnishing it with apples, I sprinkled the duck with a mix of balsamic vinegar and honey. Even though I was happy with the result, I will soon prepare the salad again and try it with Mouton Cadet. I may have been influenced this time but I will get it my own way at any rates…

The duel Mouton Cadet versus Scaia to come....

Thirsty ? 

Mouton Cadet – chain of stores AGA (Salon win i alkoholi) - 50 PLN

Scaia – Winestory - 39 PLN

  

The recipe for a good match :

Scaia (garganega + trebbiano soave + chardonnay)

A mix of salads, roast duck’s breast, baked apple, toasted peanuts & walnuts 

Sauce: balsamic vinegar + honey
Walnut oil

Scatter salt and pepper over duck’s breast. Fry it from both sides (8 min skin side, 5 min – no-skin part) and roast it for 20 minutes in the oven + 2 minutes to get it crispy from the top. Core an apple, sprinkle it with lemon and honey and roast it in a silver foil next to the duck. Cut the apple into slices when it’s warm and soft, and place them on the mix of salads sprinkled with walnut oil. Cut the duck’s breast into slices and drizzle it with the vinegar sauce. Decorate the lot with nuts.

Alto Adige - Cries and Whispers

PETER ZEMMER 

DOC Alto Adige

Trentino-Alto Adige

ITALY

Pinot Grigio  2011 

Sweet and sour. A really decent version of Pinot Grigio whose capricious nature doesn’t encourage winemakers to put much effort in the production of this underestimated wine. Pinot Grigio by Peter Zemmer didn't remind me water painted in yellow, like some people call wines of this grape; on the contrary, it is a proud wine which is convincing thanks to its balanced acidity and warm sweetness (pear, peach, ripe apple, gentle flowers). Perfect at the shy beginning of spring.

Gewürztraminer 2011

A classic example of intensive, aromatic wine, with distinct note of lychee and jasmine. Wind from the Alpes brought in some spiciness which is a big advantage here. Consequently, the wine is not insipid or dull. However in order to fully appreciate this wine, one needs to be in a ‘gewürz mood’. It’s the least elegant wine of all the wines, a bit nervous in comparison with the calm and round whole.

Pinot Noir 2010

Colour : raspberry at the peak of ripeness. It is not rose anymore but it’s still far from being intensive red. Piotr, the wine commentator, used an expression that I describes the wine in an accurate way: ‘it’s whispering but not crying’. I could whisper to a whole bottle of this Pinot Noir with pleasure but in my view, the quality-price relation is unjust. For 69 PLN a wine should at least try to be a challenge instead of shyly peeping out of the glass.

Lagrein 2010

Lagrein is an opposite of Pinot Noir. In this case, I was happy to take the challenge face to face because lagrein is not whispering but it’s seducing. And its seductive weapon is the velvet structure. It’s soft, gentle and perfectly round. The colour deserves respect as well – deep red, proudly ruby. Nose is mediocre but lagrein makes up for it on the palate. Power of forest fruit and alpine cyclamen.

Thirsty ? 

The wines are available in the chain of wine stores Winestory.

Pinot Grigio 59 PLN

Gewürztraminer 69 PLN

Pinot Noir 69 PLN

Lagrein 59 PLN

Cool Bay

I have a special feeling for sauvignon blanc. I like it because it reminds me the first steps I took when I was participating in wine tastings. It reminds me delight and astonishment I felt when I realized that in one glass there can hide such a variety of flavours and aromas. My first unforgettable sauvignon blanc is Gilhelm Blanc from Moulin de Gassac, a vineyard from the south of France promoted by the no more existent Vinaress that used to welcome guests in Bednarska Street in Warsaw. This wine is a wine made of grapes sunbathing in Languedoc  Roussillon which, for obvious reasons, has more to do with Cool Bay than sauvignon blanc from the Rhone or Loire Valley; hence the sentimental introduction to the post about Cool Bay.

Cool Bay is a pleasant aperitif; indispensable companion of soft, gentle cheese as well as shrimps prepared simply on garlic and butter. This time I was engrossed in a conversation and had only cashew. A vivid discussion however didn’t stop me from observing one interesting thing. Namely, fat and sweet nuts highlighted the note of black currents’ leaves. Well, what can I say? The prominent symbol of sauvignon blanc composed of black currents’ leaves, gooseberry and black current is strong enough to convince beginners, tame critics and transport wine lovers to the world of memories.